13.6 miles, 3930' gain, 5230' descent

Woke up with my back feeling fine. Hurrah! But this will be my toughest day. Trepidatious.

First downhill, though forest, to the West Fork White River. This is a wild, remote place, and the river runs so white with silt that it looks more like clay than water. There are multiple channels. The first one had a log bridge over it but no railing. Yikes. Thankfully this was narrow, although deep and running fast. The second wider river channel had a nice log bridge with railing. Thank you, Park Service!

Then uphill, through forest and a cool/spooky burn zone, to Lake James, which is tranquil and lovely. Up some more, as the forest opens into meadows with views of jagged crags as I approach Windy Gap.

Now comes a dilemma. I'm already tired, and still a long way from tonight's camp. But there's a 0.8 mile side spur leading to the Natural Bridge. Do I really want to add 1.6 miles to an already long day? But on the other hand, it's not as if I'm likely to be in this area again anytime soon. If I don't put in the effort to see this now, when else am I going to?

Ok, I convinced myself. At first the spur is a nice level traverse with great views to the north (Cascades and Mount Baker). But then it heads steeply downhill. Dangit, I'm going to have to climb back up every one of these wasted steps! The Natural Bridge is worth it, though. Cool geological formation with views of Lake James and Lake Ethel below it.

Back on the main route, Windy Gap is an alpine wonderland of splendor and delight. It's over all too soon, though, as the trail settles into a serious descent. Down through the meadows, down through the trees, down to the ferns, then the mosses and the nursery logs, and hey, I've lost enough altitude that this is now a temperate rainforest.

This junction is the end of the Northern Loop trail. Hello, Wonderland! A quick hop and a skip over the Carbon River on a suspension bridge, and I'm at camp for the night.