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Wonderland Trail Day 1:
Longmire to Devil's Dream

8.4 miles, 3200' gain, 1200' descent

Five of us set out from Longmire: me (Shawn), Meg, Sasha, Tanner, and Tanner. I had planned the trip for a group of seven, but one dropped out in advance and Mike ended up only able to join for a section due to work commitments.

I arrived at the ranger station around 9 AM to activate my permit, and met up with the others before 10. We were in no great hurry to get going as this was a short first day, so we stopped for a pricy but delicious latte at the National Park Inn. The Longmire gift shop offers a final opportunity to pick up any last minute supplies. Meg bought a map of the trail, which was arguably unnecessary given how easy the Wonderland is to follow and that she was hiking in a large group, but would later prove to be a wise decision.

Onto the trail, and straight into the first of so many Big Ups to come. We climbed through lush green forest, descended slightly to cross the flood damaged valleys of Kautz Creek and Pyramid Creek, then climbed more through varying forest to Devil's Dream camp, which is tucked unobtrusively into the woods by the side of the trail. Pyramid Creek really brought home how dynamic this landscape is, because several of us had visited here last year and remember the river channel being in a different place with a memorable double bridge across it. That bridge is now buried a foot deep under rocks, while a new bridge crosses the river in its revised location.

Aside: along this trip I heard many hikers disparaging forested trail sections such as this, viewing them as merely a tax that must be paid in order to reach the dramatic alpine regions. I feel sorry for these people! Learn to focus your gaze on the small and nearby as well as the grand and distant, open your ears to the trees which all have stories to tell, and you will find so much more delight just waiting to be had.

The Devil's Dream water source had dried up due to the late season, but we were forewarned of this so continued past camp up to the meadows and patrol cabin at Indian Henry's Hunting Grounds. Here we found water, enjoyed dinner, and watched the mountain change color as evening arrived. Without this extension, the day would have been just 5.8 miles with 2800' elevation gain.

This section of the Wonderland can also be day hiked as Indian Henry's from Longmire.

Our first proper view of Tahoma comes while crossing Kautz Creek

Bridge over Pyramid Creek

Kiya Lake (meaning 'grandmother' in the Lushootseed language of the Puget Sound Salish, formerly called Sq___ Lake after a derogatory term for Native women) is shrunken and muddy, not a great water source at this time of year

Ranger patrol cabin at Indian Henry's Hunting Grounds

Evening light from Indian Henry's Hunting Grounds

Camped at Devil's Dream